Waver jacket

I was itching to get back to my machine after Christmas, particularly to try out some of my new toys (sleeve board! Pressing ham – finally! New pinks and snips and a snazzy pink mini cutting mat!). I wanted a low stakes yet slightly meaty project, so made a wearable toile of the Papercut Waver jacket. In fact it’s a very fast sew as it only took me one day end to end, and it’s wound up being elevated from ‘wearable toile’ to ‘really rather like it, actually’. I like when that happens.


I bought the Waver pattern with the aim of replacing a rather tatty old RTW khaki jacket I’ve had for ages but always seemed to be just right for heading out on semi-slobby, casual days when it’s neither overly warm or cold. Like the Waver it’s got a hood, roomy patch pockets and falls to high hip length, though I cut this one a bit longer: about halfway between the two views of the pattern.

Waver jacket

The pattern was really fun to sew, even with the tiresome chores of interfacing and cutting of linings that coat-making insists on. The pieces all slotted together really nicely: it was fun to make the gusseted hood, see how the neckline facing came together, and try a new method for bagging and finishing the hem. And like I said, it’s fast – I wasn’t rushing but still had it basically done in 5-6 hours over a single day. For a lined coat! There’s lots of handy shortcuts which make it a speedy sew like the simple patch pockets, the front facing being integrated into the main front pattern piece, and easy-set raglan sleeves.

Waver jacket
Waver jacket

I cut a straight size small and I don’t think I’d change much at all on the fit. Like other Papercut patterns it’s on the roomy side so sizing down would give a more fitted look, but with the raglan sleeves and elastic waist it’s supposed to be an easy fit.

Waver jacket

The only thing I struggled with in the construction is that tricky point where the lining, facing and hem meet at the front. You’re supposed to get a nice mitred point but mine was a bit out of whack so I had to do a bit of wiggling and poking to make a neat corner. Suspect a bit of practice and more accuracy will make this a simple and failsafe method for bagging out coats, though. The instructions have you handsew the sleeve hems but I bagged those too while the coat was still inside out. Despite the corner-fudging I think it’s still amongst the more professional-looking garments I’ve made, which is largely down to spending a bit on good quality notions.

Waver jacket

I used a pack of Prym anorak snaps instead of buttons and made a trip to Soho’s Maccullouch and Wallis for the elastic cord and toggles. Pro tips for hammering snaps: buy extras, practice on spare fabric first (you’ll always ruin the first few), and start at the bottom of the coat in case you, um, hammer one on inside out. Which I definitely did. Also I freestyled my positioning, but next time I’ll make sure one is horizontally aligned to the elastic casing as it gapes a bit there when fastened.

Waver jacket
Waver jacket

Amusingly, the notions cost more than the fabrics themselves. The outer is a viscose twill from Abakhan, which is quite lightweight with a tiny bit of crispness and sheen. Once I realised the coat would end up wardrobe-viable I decided to use some delicious Liberty tana lawn to line it. This print’s called Achilles (I have a much-loved knit dress in a different colourway) and I bought it at the same time as the outer fabric in a crazy online Liberty sale that Abakhan had on – it was £7.50 a metre or something. I like that the lining peeks out when the coat is undone or the cuffs are rolled.

waver hack

I’m so pleased with the fit and speed of the Waver that I want to make another one pretty soon, in the full-length view with no hood or elastic, and perhaps attempting to add a notched collar like these inspirations I’ve had pinned for a while. Shouldn’t be so tricky to hack a piece onto the neckline and I’ve got a lovely forest green textured coating in my stash I’ve been wanting to use.

48 thoughts on “Waver

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      Glad it’s not just me! Just glad it was the bottom one and I don’t really need to use it – I thought trying to pull it out would be dangerous.

  1. AvatarMarilla

    Love this, so practical! I went a bit crazy in the named advent sale and bought a couple of coat patterns to get stuck into. Unlike last January where I hit a sewing lull, I feel enthused and inspired and this post is totally helping ;-)

  2. AvatarMelissa

    Congratulations on completing this gorgeous coat. Isn’t it great that the wearable toile became totally wearable? I have had my eye on this pattern and I think I am convinced now I need one! Thanks, Katie!

  3. AvatarKathryn

    Its really lovely! I wasn’t too inspired by this pattern before but it actually looks perfect for the raincoat I want to make.

  4. AvatarKatie

    This looks awesome!! I’ve made a Minoru, but the changes I want to make to it are more like Waver… so maybe for my spring jacket, I should give this a try!

  5. AvatarSophie

    It is SO pro Katie! Funny, I didn’t look twice at this pattern when it came out but I’ve since since two versions that look really fab. Definitely worth investing in nice notions, they really make it look very RTW. Nice job!

  6. AvatarElouise

    That is so gorgeous, I bought this pattern before Christmas and its on my to sew list, I already have the fabric and just need to do it! I hadn’t thought about using snaps to close but I will definitely consider it after seeing yours.

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      Make sure they’re good quality ones and nice and securely hammered, one of mine has broken already :(

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      It’s so nice and simple compared to say, the Minorou, but I think the result is quite similar. I’m all for low effort, high reward ;)

  7. AvatarHeather

    This looks great! Ilove the snaps! I had troubles with those lining corners too but I think it’s a practice thing too. I bet your next one will be perfect. I lined mine with Liberty fabric too and it feels so nice against the skin.

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      It feels LOVELY, especially when cycling – nice and cool and breathable! I’ll definitely use Tana Lawn for other coats.

  8. AvatarFiona

    I ADORE this! I hadn’t really given this pattern a second look but now I feel like I must make it! Great job. Also can’t wait to see your next version. The notched collar on your inspiration pics looks very like the victoria blazer collar and lapels when not turned back, super easy, three rectangles!

  9. AvatarKayla Green's Blog

    Oooh, I can use one of these! The weather is super crappy to where I live so I’d definitely need something with hood on. But I’d probably change the material and use a waterproof or semi-waterproof fabric.

  10. Avataramalie

    You whipped yours up in 5 or 6 hours…. I think that’s how long I took just for cutting the shell! I’ve been working on mine nearly two weeks…I’m so in awe of how people can sew so quickly! Can’t wait till mine is done, yours looks great!

  11. Avatarsusann

    I was thinking about tackling this pattern, although my sewing skills are rather basic and I am only just starting to sew clothing. Did you reinforce the fabric for the snaps in any way?

  12. AvatarJennifer Sandoval

    I know this is an old post, but how do I use a different collar (no hood) and use a zipper instead of snaps without messing up the facing? Usually, I remove the button placket, add 5/8″ seam allowances, then go about it as normal.
    Please help!

  13. Pingback: Waver Jacket | Work with what you have | Elle Puls

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