I’ve been going through a sewing slump this month. The willingness is there, but the time and decision-making is not. I’ve been buying up a few springlike fabrics and patterns to try to kickstart some motivation, and a recent Jaycotts sale landed me with the lovely new season Vogue 1501 amongst others. I plucked it out this weekend, and it totally worked: this was a heap of fun to make and sew and I have a nice new spring wardrobe garment ready to go.
V1501 is a Rachel Comey designer pattern. Here’s the pattern art (which is apparently usually one of the actual RTW dresses from the designer’s line) and another similar dress currently on sale at rachelcomey.com (now I want an ankle-length black version, stat). Similar to my last finished garment it’s an illusion top-and-skirt style, with the bodice only joined to the skirt at the front waistband.
I didn’t toile because the pattern pieces looked about right: I cut a size 12 from shoulder to waist and 14 in the skirt, and tucked 3/4″ out of the bodice length. The key fitting point to get right is the waistband really as the bust and hips are loose. The fastening is an invisible zip at the centre back waist plus a button loop at the back neck.
I can’t get over how good the fit is through the shoulder/upper chest/back with no adjusting: this never happens to me in Big 4s! Are the designer patterns cut to a different block? However it’s a little tight through the bum: darted back skirts never do that well on me.
I made a few small stylistic tweaks:
· Removed the deep inverted pleat on the centre of the front skirt; instead cut the pattern piece on the fold on the pleat line. Not a fan of masses of volume around my middle.
· Took 4″ off the skirt length
· The shoulders have a strange ‘gusset’ piece to add height, into which you’re supposed to slip a shoulder pad. The American footballer vibe is not my thing, so I sewed the gusset in flat instead for a tiny cap sleeve effect.
The construction reminded me of my beloved Vogue 1395: nothing overly taxing or tricky, but some satisfyingly fiddly little steps to work through. Zen sewing at its best. I put my trust in the instructions, which were mostly pretty good, though I found it a bit weird that you get directions to French seam the skirt pockets but no clue on how to finish the rest of the skirt side seams. So I had to hastily overlock them afterwards.
I especially appreciated the all-in-one facing unit to finish the neck and arms being sewn in my preferred way, which takes longer but gets a really lovely smooth result.
This fabric has been kicking around in my stash for ages; it’s a lightweight cotton from The Man Outside Sainsburys in Walthamstow and was a good match for the pattern. (I hear tell there’s another Walthamstow meetup next weekend so I’m looking forward to seeing what TMOS has in store these days.) I definitely want a solid version in black or navy next to try and emulate the lovely RTW version above.
This is a really modern, fresh outfit! I have been very curious to see how this pattern would look on a real person as I wasn’t totally sure about it when I first saw it. Good call on switching out the shoulder pads. Love the fabric choice as well, reminds me of something you would see in Whistles. I might have to give this pattern a go after all! : )
Thanks – being Whistles-esque is high praise!
This dress is so great! I love the fabric/cut/colours/tweaks/result. Can you tell I like it?! Haha. I only recently found your blog and am quickly becoming a fan – I like a lot of your style choices :)
Thank you Bronwyn!
What an interesting design! I like that’ it’s a little dress, but in no way frou-frou. It suits your style!
Glad you think so!
Love it! Such a unique dress. Your fabric choice is great.
Thanks! I like Vogue for unique patterns that are still quite wearable.
I was just looking at this pattern yesterday and wondering what it would look like on a real person – the answer is fantastic! This looks great on you, it really suits your style. Good call on omitting the shoulder pads!
I can see it on you too! I love that it’s unusual but very wearable.
Looks great! I’m planning to meet up in Walthamstow me to weekend and looking forward to seeing the famous” man outside sainsburys” . Will be good to meet you after following your blog
Look forward to it!
Very cool, and the print on that fabric is lush! The necklace is gorgeous too, really admiring it :)
Thanks, the necklace is from Madewell in the states.
I love this dress which looks very hip “as if” two separates together that match! So stylish and reminiscent of the way Vogue just does it right so often. Vogue is one of the very few companies that I have to fuss extensively with to get the fit right so I wasn’t surprised to read you had little to adjust in terms of fit. Love that crisp cotton! You’ll get a lot of wear out of this lovely summer dress in the coming months. I’ve been excessively busy with work too as I look longingly at my sewing table!
Thanks! I agree of all the big 4s I like the Vogue the most in terms of design and fit.
I hadn’t really given this pattern a second thought, but I can see how it’s totally your style! Looks cute and modern, and your fabric choice is perfect. Nice job!
Thanks! It’s a super cool one I think.
Ooh looks great! Are you young on Saturday? If so see you there, but you understand I absolutely am not buying… X
I’m only buying solids… ha ha. See you then!
Eek so cool! I’ve been eyeing this one for sure (and I do well with patterns designed for shoulder pads, ha). Your fabric choice is perfect!
I can see it on you!
Very chic and I agree – would love to see it in a black or navy!
I’m going to hunt for suitable plain fabric this weekend :)
Such a cool dress! I love it. I like that “all in one facing unit” too. It looks like it would be much easier to get a smooth neckline. That’s turning out to be an area I struggle with as a new sewist.
It’s an area I still struggle with!
this is so great. i have been wanting this pattern as well. i might need to go snag it now.
I bought this pattern in the sale too! I’m so glad to see what it looks like without the shoulder pads (great by the way). You’ve inspired me to crack on with it. Thank you for the review!
Amazing fabric! I cut this dress out around Easter but it really wasn’t warm enough to wear it and I let it stall. Must get back to work, I love yours. I wasn’t thinking of cotton, but it works great, looks very wearable.
To be honest something with a tiny bit more drape would work better, but I always like to try in a new pattern in an easy-to-work-with fabric first!
Ahhh! I’ve been waiting for someone to sew this up! Looks so great. The fabric you’ve chosen really suits the whole vibe too. Thanks for the tips on those little shoulder pad sections, I’ve sewn them once before into something that required puffy sleeves but seems a bit odd on this garment. Hope you’ve got your sew-jo back now x
Thanks Sophie – I think I do!
I love this outfit Katie!! So cute and how cool that it looks like 2 pieces but isn’t? That fabric is very you too. I am really impressed with the fit too. Will you make this again?
Thanks! Yeah it’d be interesting to do the top and bottom in different fabrics for more of a two-piece look. I’m definitely going to make it again in a solid.
Oh man, I really want this pattern but have been trying not to add to my collection! It’s just so cool! Love this look on you so much!
I can see it on you! Such a fun one to make.
I love the graphic fabric you paired with this! It’s just such a modern look–relaxed, youthful elegance. (Too many adjectives?) Lovely make.
Very kind words, thank you!
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Always love your work, but this is just, wow wow wow. Such a perfect pattern + fabric pairing. Really nicely done.
Soooooo cute! I’ve been waiting to see this made. It looks great! I want to make it now.
Thank you Erica, look forward to seeing yours!
This looks so chic and high end! You’ve definitely shown me the potential of this pattern. I love your fabric choice too!
Thanks! Highly recommend the pattern.
This is giving me heart palpitations!!! Such a perfect rendition of this pattern! I’ve been sitting on this pattern because there were a few things I wasn’t sure about stylistically (the shoulder pads, for one) but your version has totally put my mind at ease! And your fabric choice is simply stunning! Love it!!
Do it, just made my second, it’s such a dream!
Thanks so much for posting this, and it looks great on you! I immediately googled for real examples after seeing the pattern and am now convinced I’ll have to make one myself. Also, am looking forward to snooping the rest of your blog. :-) I wonder, though, if you might take photos in front of a simpler background – all the décor behind you makes it a challenge to see the dress edges. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful! Honestly this is the clearest wall in my flat, but I’ll try!
Hi, I recently bought this vogue pattern and discovered your lovely blog! Would you mind telling me what the name of this fabric you used? Thanx!
Hey – I don’t think it has a name, I just got it from a market stall – all I know is it’s lightweight cotton.
This is really great! We’d love it if you’d post a photo to our Pinterest Fan Gallery. Thanks! https://www.pinterest.com/mccallpatternco/fan-gallery-board/
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