Subtitled: a lesson in fabric choices.
These dresses are both the pussy bow dress by Salme patterns. I really like the aesthetic of lots of Elisa’s designs: unfussy and wearable but with interesting details, and I just love a blousy, elastic-waist fit as most of them are. Easy to sew, easy to fit, easy to wear. In theory anyway…
My first one is made from a lightweight mystery (polycotton I think) from Chapel Market – £3 in the remnants bin. Perhaps predictably, it was a nightmare to sew with because it frayed like a beeyatch. Sewing on the bias binding and creating the collar/tie piece without it unravelling before my eyes was painful. I wore it yesterday and the overlocked side seams started disintegrating! I really should have invested in a finer needle and/or French seamed the whole thing, but eh, I am an impatient sewist.
That aside, the construction is a bit tricksy anyway. The neckline involves tedious pressing and topstitching to get the collar and ties on with no seams peeking out. Given that I was working with a poly that really didn’t want to retain its ironed-in fold lines, this was a pretty big ask. I ended up cutting a few versions of the ties and trying different techniques until I found one that just about worked and looked fairly neat. I went for longer skinnier ties to make the neckline lie a bit flatter and let me adjust the way it can be tied in the front – a waist-level knot or neckline bow.
The second one is made of equally cheapo fabric – a border print ‘slinky jersey’ from Minerva – but, back in my beloved stretch fabric comfort zone, it went much more smoothly. I honestly don’t get why people are so scared of sewing stretch fabrics – sooo much easier to fit, finish and seam!
No need for any bias fiddling: I overlocked the armhole and neckline edging (cut on the cross-grain), turning inside-out when I hit the end of the neckline to form the ties. The join isn’t quite as neat as on the first dress, but if I tie the bow high you can’t see anything. I entirely forgot to sew the bust darts into this one, hence the slightly odd pulling around the waistline.
I took the effort to centre the pattern on the front and attempted to match it at the side seams. On this version I actually cut the entire front and back as continuous pieces (bodice and skirt connected) and added the elastic waist afterwards.
On both dresses I shortened the bodice by about 4 inches to sit on my natural waist and took in the bottom of the armholes a little to avoid bra-peekage. I really love the basic shape of this dress, so it’s a great little pattern to have in my collection.
These are so pretty! Love the second one the best, excellent pattern.
They look great, and even if it was very naughty, I love that first fabric. I”m terrified of knits, maybe it’s the unknown and lack of an overlocker, something I really must tackle.