Woo! I’m so pleased for Kelli of True Bias: her first pattern, the Hudson Pants, is now available, and it’s a cracker. I was fortunate to be asked to test for this pattern so I’ve already had time to sew up two pairs – you might have seen my first pair on Instagram right at the tail-end of Me-Made May. Trust me, if you get hold of the pattern you’ll be making multiple pairs of these babies too.
The Hudsons are a snug-fitting, low waisted urban jogger, with trimmed yoke pockets, a topstitched wide elastic waistband finished with drawcord, and deep ankle/calf cuffs. Perfect for work at home or out and about errand kind of days – of which I have a lot.
My first pair is made from a double-sided ponte knit bought locally. I used the navy side for the main trouser, with some contrast at the hip and cuff using the lighter reverse side (Hudson is MADE for fun colour blocking). I think that ponte is a perfect choice for the Hudson, as the medium amount of two-way stretch makes them super comfortable but not bag out too much.
Sewing these up is really fun and from cutting to sewing you could definitely make a pair in one session. What makes them intermediate rather than beginner is having to set the cuffs in the round, and the rows of topstitching on the waistband, where keeping the elastic uniformly gathered is key (I didn’t quite nail it on this pair, and there’s a bit of puckering). The instructions are excellent and well diagrammed so a confident beginner could easily tackle them, and they’d make a great introduction to the wonderful world of sewing pants.
Sizing wise, my waist measured about 3 sizes smaller than my hips on the chart, but Kelli recommends you go with your hip measurement as the waistband is elasticated anyway. The fit came out pretty good, just a bit tight across the bum so I might size up if I wanted a looser fit. The only thing I noted as a tester is that the ankle cuffs were a bit tight too, but Kelli has adjusted this in the final pattern to add a tiny bit more ease. I can’t imagine the shape would not work on anyone to be honest.
I loved my first pair so much I made another a week later. My second pair is in a heavy terry-backed flecked jersey from Minerva.
I cut exactly the same size as before but you can see a slight difference in fit: this knit has less widthwise stretch and hardly any lengthwise stretch. The result is a snugger, almost legging-type fit down the leg and a lower rise. I’m totally ok with this because I think it makes the pants a bit smarter; I could definitely wear them with a nice tee and loafers for work, whereas the first pair are a bit too casual for that.
I’m already imagining more pairs – I want some calf-length ones for the warmer weather (perhaps even shorts length too) and also want to try them in a lighter weight patterned knit, which I think could create a loose drawstring pant kind of effect. I think it’s a pattern which really fills a gap for comfortable yet not completely slobby leisurewear, and I’m sure I’ll come back to it over and over.
You can buy the PDF download Hudson pant pattern for $10 right here.
I received a free copy of the draft and final pattern as a tester; views are my own.