I snuck in another super-sunshiney Centaurée while we’re having a last hurrah of summer here in London! This version uses quilting cotton from the September Blue range by Dashwood Studio, available at M is For Make. David of Dashwood (who incidentally is a client of mine in the day job – I designed the Dashwood logo and website) kindly sent me the fabric to introduce this new range, which excitingly for dressmakers also includes two designs in lighter dress-weight cotton lawn. I like to think this was partly my doing as I’ve been nudging him to go into dress fabrics! I used the regular quilting weight for this dress as I knew Centaurée worked in a heavier fabric and I fancied this mustard yellow ditsy print.
This time I decided to try piping the upper bodice seams. I only had rather thick cording to hand so it looks a bit too chunky and I didn’t quite get the middle lined up perfectly, but I like the effect anyway. I used the same grey bias for the edging and straps, which I think makes the bright yellow a bit more graphic and wearable.
Weirdly I have a some diagonal wrinkling across the lower torso on this version, almost like it’s too baggy round the ribs. It could be that I didn’t line up the bodice and lining quite perfectly so it’s tugging a bit. I fully lined the bodice in the regular way this time, by making a copy of the exterior in a lightweight cotton and basting them RS together. I gathered the skirt like I usually do, with thin elastic which then stays in the dress and acts as a kind of waist stay.
Finally, the instructions have you sew the binding right over the top of the zip, connecting the front and back at the top, but for this version I stopped and restarted the binding as I find it a bit tricky to get in and out of my other Centaurée!
I guess this will get tucked away for the cold weather soon, but I’ve just booked a holiday to Mexico next month so it may well see an outing then. I’m dead keen to try drafting a Centaurée-style panelled bodice but with sleeves too… watch this space.
Fabric for this make supplied by Dashwood Studio.