Papercut pleated pants

Papercut pleated pants

Another new sewing challenge surmounted: tailored trousers, with a proper zip fly-front and everything: Papercut Patterns’ pleated pants to be precise. I made them in a slightly tweedy charcoal wool from my shopathon at Mood.

Papercut pleated pants

The pattern is great, although it’s definitely one to toile first to check fit and techniques. Lots of bloggers say the sizes come up very big but I didn’t find that was the case. I graded between the S and M which fitted about right. The construction went pretty smoothly and was a good level of challenge. The pieces all slotted together very nicely and the instructions – in a little fold-it-yourself booklet – are good. I messed up the fly front a couple of times and managed to set the pleats the wrong way, but no major disasters. I’m quite proud that these are labelled for ‘skilled’ sewists and I didn’t struggle much, actually!

Papercut pleated pants
Papercut pleated pants
Papercut pleated pants

The front didn’t quite want to stay flat so I used two hook and bars instead of the suggested one, and also slipstitched the bottom two inches of the zip opening closed. I decided to add belt loops right at the end, mostly inspired by Jolies Bobines’ fabulous pants using a similar new République du Chiffon pattern. They’re quite functional at keeping them in place, as well as adding a bit of detail to the wide waistband.

Papercut pleated pants

Nice and tidy inside. I slipstitched down the waistband before topstitching for accuracy, and all the raw edges are overlocked.

Papercut pleated pants
Papercut pleated pants
Papercut pleated pants

The fit overall is good: I like the mid-rise and slim legs, and the cleverly shaped waistband has no gaping at all. For some reason though, I’m feeling a bit ‘meh’ about the finished garment. I’m just not sure the mannish silhouette with hip pleats is the best shape on me, and I’ve been struggling to think of ways to wear them in an outfit. I usually tend to like a slouchy top half but then the look just gets baggy all over, so I think more fitted tops are the way to go.

trousers

I had a little trawl for styling ideas – I like the patterned knit and asymmetric blouse ideas. Any other thoughts on styling them? We’ll see if I pick them up to wear very often. I poured a lot of love into them so I hope so!

Papercut pleated pants

I’m pretty sure I’ll make these again, but next time I’d pick a solid coloured twill or denim for a more casual look. I have another Burda trouser pattern that I want to try first. The mission to sew perfect pants starts here…

11 thoughts on “Papercut pleated pants

  1. Stephanie

    These are fantastic. They fit so well and look beautifully sewn. Before I even got to the styling part I was going to say I love the tee and loafers that you paired them with. It’s such a great look. I just ordered two patterns from Papercut – Josephine and leggings – and wish I would’ve grabbed this one too! Next time…

  2. emily marie

    These are great! Isn’t there something about making yourself a nice pair of pants that makes you feel extra accomplished?! I really like the way The Row styled them; a really covered up sweater on top, showing a little ankle with those tassel loafers like you did here.

    1. Katie Post author

      Thanks! Yep, I feel pretty fancy.
      I like that look too. Off to hunt for some black knit and a turtleneck pattern ;)

  3. Sallie

    Love these trousers! I agree, I think how you styled them is perfect! I would be tempted to go full on menswear and pair them with button-up shirts, but I could see them looking equally cool with more modern, simple tops (like your dyed chambray scout!! loooovvveee…) But no matter what you wear with them – the trousers are truly standouts all on their own!

    1. Katie Post author

      Thank you very much! Hmm, do you mean I need to be the last sewist in the world to make an Archer, then? :)

  4. Natalie

    They look incredible Katie! I am in awe of your sewing skills. I really struggle with the fit of some trousers too. Because I’m top heavy I don’t like to wear really fitted tops which means if I don’t wear slim-fit trousers I end up looking too voluminous. Are you you tempted to try any straight-fit trousers?

  5. puu

    i think they are brilliantly executed – “skilled” or not, you seem to have made a lot of smart choices in how you decided to assemble the trousers. and i agree with many others – the way you have them styled is lovely, looks comfy and chic. but then again, sallie’s suggestion of incorporating more “menswear” styling is a great one as well!

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