I think I mentioned a while ago that earlier this year the lovely Cloth House sent me a dreamy bundle of their Japanese cottons and crepes. I’ve been hoarding it all since January, anxious to pick the right project for every piece to ensure it’s used to its best potential. Eventually I had a breakthrough and cut into the first one, and this is the result.
It’s a Vogue 1395, a pattern I’ve had on my radar for a while after seeing Morgan and Lauren‘s gorgeous versions. I grabbed it in Minerva‘s half price Vogue sale and realised it’d be a perfect match for the Paintbox cotton because both remind me of Japanese kimono. Hence why I decided to get outside and pose next to our lovely baby Japanese maple tree, which always pops back into bloom every spring.
Dream fabric and a cool pattern: making this up was definitely pure sewing joy. I’ve come to realise that my favourite types of project are ones where the sewing itself is quite straightforward but the construction is a little leftfield, with a bit of trickery or challenge thrown in. 1395 definitely fulfils that with its double-layered back bodice, the over-layer of which wraps to the front to form the waist ties.
I’m not lying when I say this fabric is probably the nicest I’ve ever sewn with or worn. It’s got a slightly textured seersucker type of weave and while it took a press like a dream it barely creases with wear. Magic fabric! I’m even considering investing in the black colourway for another frock.
I made several flat pattern alterations based on how Big 4s always fit me. I cut a size below my measurements all over, shortened the bodice (perhaps half an inch too much in retrospect), took neckline wedges out, and cut the very smallest size through the shoulder. I still needed to shave more off the shoulder seam towards the edge because the sleeves were winging out weirdly, but overall I’m pleased with how the fit turned out. It’s supposed to be blousy and elasticated at the waist so you can’t really go too wrong.
For once I found the instructions were in a pretty sensible order so I did mostly follow them (except the weird direction to double-stitch every seam – I did French instead), but one change I made was to create a sort of facing piece for the ties. In the instructions they’re just roll-hemmed, but the back side of my fabric is pretty obvious looking so I wanted a neater finish that would only show the right side.
This was quite straightforward – I just traced off the shape of the tie, cutting it off around the side seam point, sewed it RS together to the overlay and turned to the outside. The rest of the overlay hem is then finished with bias binding.
Here’s another yummy detail, a gathered portion at the back neck that’s made by cutting a horizontal slit, seaming above and below it, then gathering and sewing the slit shut.
The whole back with the ties undone – the top layer is just caught in the waist seam at the centre back. I just love this dress as an object, I keep looking at it and petting it. Dork.
As you can probably tell, I’m digging this dress and I reckon I’ll make more 1395s with a few little tweaks: make the ties slimmer and longer because they feel kind of stumpy, try a curved scoop neckline, and try a more drapey fabric for a different effect – perhaps even a knit. You could even omit the top layer completely for a simple elastic-waist dress. Well on its way to becoming a TnT I think!
I do love this dress and fabric very much, but wowee that fabric is pricey! Really lovely though and I’m sure it will wear very well.
That is a perfect combo – it’s my favourite 1395. I love all those little design details that make it special
Very cool! I do like this pattern, it’s on my “to buy” list. Nice job on modifying the ties, would not have thought of that!
Very nice Katie. This is on my “to sew” list this summer…doesn’t the pattern say line the skirt? Did you? That’s kind of what’s putting me off…
I didn’t line the skirt! Very easy to leave it off, and my fabric definitely didn’t need it;.
Love it! Great idea to line the ties. I started cutting mine out last week and noticed the skirt is lined, too. Did you line your skirt? I was thinking of skipping it.
I didn’t line the skirt! Very easy to leave it off, and my fabric definitely didn’t need it. Look forward to seeing yours – we seem to be drawn to the same patterns a lot :)
Gorgeous! I just bought this pattern too and am so excited to make it up. Great tip on facing the ties – I’ll totally be doing that.
Ooooh can’t wait to see your take on it
This looks so cute! I actually made this last summer, but I probably needed to make similar adjustments as you did (shortening the bodice, cutting a smaller size) because mine came out a bit too baggy… Also I used rayon challis, and did the double sided ties but they’re sooo thick. You may have convinced me to give this another go, though (maybe I’ll do a fabric without an obvious back side though)
Do try it again, such a lovely pattern to sew and wear!
Love this pattern on you! Hope you don’t mind, but I’m pinning it to our fan gallery on Pinterest. Well done!
Thanks!
Totally fab!
Ooh yay! I love how this turned out – I would have only thought to make it in draping fabrics but the cotton looks great! I was actually trying mine on again yesterday and thinking I’d like to make it again…
This is the perfect pattern for this fabric! It looks fantastic! I agree that longer ties could be pretty on your next version. Can’t wait to see it!
Lovely! I especially like the back of it, looks great!
Thanks. I wasn’t sure about the dipped back neck but I like it now!
I love it! I made mine in a knit – not too stretchy and had ZERO recovery so it was obviously not suitable for a t-shirt or leggings or other stretchy garment. On my next one (rayon challis, maybe?) I’ll probably try some of your mods, because, I did a lot of kind of feeble alterations on the final garment.
Good to hear someone else tried it in a knit. I usually do a mix of pre-emptive and as-I-sew kind of alterations.
Great dress + perfectly co-ordinated tights! :-)
Tried on three pairs before settling on these :)
That’s lovely! I bet you’ll wear it a lot!
Twice already :)
Gorgeous fabric!! What a cool dress too – I love the waist tie!
Oh yeah that’s gorgeous fabric alright! Looks amazing and love that little back gather detail. Clever clever little frock!
What lovely fabric! I’m always interested in V-Neck dresses… but I can’t see how you faced the back piece… and the front pieces look like they are bias binding before they’re sewn together! VERY INTERESTING!
The back neckline is finished by being joined to the under-bodice. There’s all sorts of fun construction trickery at work!
This is a gorgeous little number – that fabric looks LLuuusssshhh!! and like the faced waist ties.. :)
This dress looks like an item you’ll wear for many years to come. Super comfy looking too!
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It does feel great to wear – have done twice in a month already :)
i have this pattern and its on my to sew list. just need some time! yours looks great as always.
I can see it on you in a drapey silk – it’s a lovely one to make.
Nice dress and lovely fabric, but what I love from your pic is the Acer, hubby is dreaming of having one for the house!!!
Super sweet isn’t he! I love watching the colours change.
oh yes! Awesome species, amazing colors. I finally caved and bought one this morning, hubby’s bday is next Sunday and couldn’t think of anything better. Maybe finishing Jedediah pants for him…. ??