Magical McCall 7445

You know it’s a true love sewing project when a) I peel myself out of bed a little early on a school day to photograph them in the semi-dark for the old bloggo and b) I want to wear them so much, I do so even on a highly weather-inappropriate day. It’s close to freezing here in London and here I am, flashing a bit of ankle in my snazzy new pants.

These are the wide-leg cropped pants from McCall 7445, which I got – and is still currently – half off at Minerva Crafts. This is a design by Melissa Watson for the Palmer-Pletsch line, and I actually discovered the pattern via Melissa’s Instragram feed showing her own versions of the pattern. Look at her silk velvet pair in action – swoon! I made view B, which has an exposed front zip and a waist facing instead of a waistband.

Fun fact time – Melissa is Pati Palmer’s daughter, and in case you didn’t know Palmer-Pletsch are known for being the goddesses of fitting. They’ve written several books on the subject and pioneered the tissue-fitting system. An unexpected bonus of this pattern is that the instructions have thorough guidance on how to tissue-fit the pants and make common alterations – flat/full butt adjustments, sway back, crotch curve adjustments, that sort of thing. The pants also have a one-inch seam allowance on the side seams for easier fitting. I assume all of the Palmer-Pletsch line patterns have the same?

As it happens, the size 14 was basically perfect on me out of the packet – or they look pretty good to me, anyway – so I didn’t need to use any of the enclosed advice. After basting at the given one-inch I ended up shaving about an extra half-inch or so off the waistline but that’s it in terms of adjustments. My measurements are actually a little over a Big 4 size 14, but they come up typically large, and I was also using a fabric with a slight stretch, a fine needlecord from Croft Mill, which meant I wanted to get them nice and snug. I also took one inch off the length.

They came together super fast, a few hours on Sunday evening. Turns out exposed zip flies are the easiest ever! It sounds gushy but I just love every detail of this design. It’s pretty rare I make a pattern exactly as designed without fiddling around with it, but these really are the one. It makes sense I guess since Melissa seems like a super stylish lady from her Instagram feed… alright, now I’m definitely gushing.

Internal details (excuse the fluff, needlecord loves it!): I love the squared-off pockets, which I lined with leftover silk from my Helmi dress, and the sleek self-faced waistline. I’m gonna make another pair of these pretty fast in some olive green heavy crepe I’ve got in my stash, perhaps with a concealed size zip.

And they’re a second tick off the 2017makenine list, hurrah. Yay for pants that make me want to dance!

18 thoughts on “Magical McCall 7445

  1. AvatarBec

    Oh these are gorgeous!! Definitely a pattern-fabric win. I love the exposed zip – just something a bit different from normal and really lifts the design!

  2. AvatarClaire Newton

    These look great – fit and fabric choice perfecto. I’m currently mulling the wide-leg pants/culottes options and wondered which you prefer between the Emerson and 7445? I think the McCalls pattern sounds great with the fit guidance but the fabric I have has minimal stretch. Your thoughts would be appreciated ? Thank you

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      It comes down to the style details you prefer around the top really – the Emersons have pleats, a lower rise and the elasticated back, whereas 7445 is higher rise, fixed waistline and flat fronted. I don’t think stretch is a requirement for the 7445s – it just makes them rather comfortable! I prefer these of the two.

  3. AvatarKelly

    I still do not quite believe cropped, wide-leg pants could work, in spite of all the evidence cropping up that they do look good! You’re just adding to that! These are great :)

  4. AvatarFabric Tragic

    They look great on. Those pockets are awesome. I just made some shorts and ended up doing a centre back invisible zip for the first time and I like it so much better than a side seam zip – totally converted!

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      Ah, interesting, maybe I’ll try a centre back instead of side. I’m strangely paranoid of back zips splitting open!

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