M-m-m-my sha-Yona

Yona coat

Oh hay! I’ve been struck down with a vile flu-type thing for over a week, but finally felt well enough to get out today and grab some photos. This is mah new Named Patterns Yona coat, a big tick off my winter plans list.

Yona coat

I’ve been wanting to make this up for a while to replace a similar old RTW coat, and when I saw the paper version of the pattern half price on sale I pounced. To be honest I was a bit trepidatious about using a Named pattern: I’m clearly not the tall willowy shape they draft for and I’ve heard rumours of patchy instructions and painful tracing processes. In the end, I dived into this coat sans toile, followed the instructions with no issues, and had the coat finished in a weekend. And I rather love it.

Yona coat
Yona coat

I was feeling impatient, so riskily cut a straight size 38 right into my good fabric. It’s too tight around the hips, as I suspected it would be and as indeed my old RTW one is, but I like how it looks both done up and loose so it’s not a problem. I’m happy with the fit around the raglan sleeves and back too: I like that the two-piece sleeves give my puny shoulders a bit of extra structure, even though there’s no real tailoring going on – just interfacing added strategically as directed.

Yona coat

I just made some small design alterations before cutting: adding two inches to the length to match my RTW inspiration, and shaving about half an inch of width off the lapels. It’s surprising how different it looks from Named’s sample just with a few small tweaks, as also evidenced by all the other lovely and varied Yonas in blogland: Ping, Sunni, Rachael, Julie, Lucinda, Morgan.

Yona coat

The construction was pretty fun and personally I found the instructions really good. I did just mess up the lapels first time round by not anchoring the collar ends onto the diagonal of the lapel – a symptom of rushing a bit and not double-checking the design sketch – but I fixed it with some crafty hand-stitching. You can see a pic of the incorrect ‘before’ here.

Yona coat
Yona coat

I especially like the jump hem method – it’s by far my best-looking yet, though it’s buckling just a touch as I think I forgot to add seam allowance to the lower edge of the lining, oops. I supplemented the instructions with a bit of extra machine bagging to cut down on the handsewing. You do have to add seam and hem allowances and trace off some overlapping pieces on Named’s paper patterns but I’m now prepared to forgive that, as long as you remember where to add them all.

Yona coat
Yona coat

The fabric is a very lovely darkest forest green wool melton from Miss Matatabi with a subtle diamond pattern. I cut the collar in a scrap of black ponte, inspired by Sunni’s three (!) versions of this pattern. Next time I’d do the collar stand and back facing in a softer fabric too as the wool is a bit scratchy at the neck.

Yona coat
I finished this a week or so ago and it’s gone right into rotation – it’s just right for the current weather and should see me through til spring. I suppose it’s not really a garment I need more than one of, which is a shame as it was so fun to make and I love the shape. Perhaps a shorter one in a lighter fabric for the warmer months might be on the cards.

42 thoughts on “M-m-m-my sha-Yona

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      It’s much more slim then other coats I’ve made but that makes it a bit smarter and more flexible, I think. A handy one to have!

  1. AvatarMarilla

    This looks so great and when I saw your pic on Instagram this week I thought how brilliant and unusual your (ahem) collar mod looked! Either way, this is a fab coat! X

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      I liked it the other way at first but I took a set of photos prior to this and it looked sort of weird and I couldn’t unsee that it was wrong!

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      Yeah I was really relieved I didn’t need to mess with the raglan fit! The centre seam makes all the difference. I love the colour too, a neutral that’s a bit different.

  2. AvatarSarah

    Looks great! I’m really a Named fan girl – yes you have to trace, and sometimes add seam allowances, but so many of their styles and drafting are so different to anyone else making patterns at the moment!

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      I agree, I’m re-looking at some of their other patterns now. I like the RTW type aesthetic a lot. But they’re a bit expensive to splash out on lots!

  3. AvatarDaniela

    I Love your coat! I can’t believe you made it in a weekend with all the cutting, sewing and even lining. I’m so impressed and inspired! I have avoided so far to sew a coat because I think it will take me ages. Any secret tips? ;)

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      This pattern is secretly quite fast because there’s no tailoring, no sleeves to set, no fancy fastenings or pockets to deal with. I think if you were ok with tracing and adding seam allowance it’d be a good first coat pattern. If you can make a dress you can definitely make a coat – it’s not so different!

  4. AvatarJennifer

    It’s beautiful, the weave of the fabric is amazing. I’m surprised you hadn’t tried Named, I really love them. I’m not willowy either but have had very good fit with them. Bottoms fit with nothing but hemming and tops, I fold out some length in a standard alteration but nothing drastic. The instructions were originally bare bones on the very first collection but now everything’s been re-released with illustrated instructions. If anything, I usually find I learn a little something from them or at least notice a drafting detail I haven’t seen elsewhere. I love the raglan sleeves on the Yona, every one I’ve seen looks so cozy. I’d like to make one but already have two other Named coats, so, yep, also a fan girl.

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      Good to know! I actually toiled the Alpi chinos ages ago and now I’m inspired to dig it out and finish them. I do find their patterns a bit too expensive sometimes – I wouldn’t pay 16euros for a PDF.

      1. AvatarJennifer

        There is that, and maybe I’d be better off if I held on to that hang up, but for for whatever reason they’re the patterns that get sewn as opposed to some less expensive which I purchase on a whim and never make up.

  5. AvatarSerena

    I’m a sort of addicted of Named pattern, and being 1.72 mt myself I can vouch that their patterns are NOT for very tall women…Rachel from House of Pinheiro should make some serious adjustment to avoid exposing too much :-)

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      Ah interesting. They do say they draft for 172cm height, but this coat was described as ‘mid-thigh length’ which it isn’t really. Good to know if I try another pattern.

  6. AvatarAmber

    Love it! Been dreaming to make one for my capsule wardrobe but I need to find the time. I like the simple and classic cut of this one. TFS;)

    P.s. I’m a new fan.

  7. AvatarCindy

    Looks great! Wow, I can’t believe you did this in a weekend!! I have been working on a Vogue coat since Christmas, and it’s still not done. Fully half of that time was muslin fitting though. With the price of wool being what it is, I wanted to get a good fit. It is my first coat, but I am real proud of it so far. Just need to finish the hem, button holes, and buttons. Hoping to finish by the end of the week. You inspire me!

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      There’s something good in taking your time too – I’m sure it will fit great and be worth the effort. Nice wool is definitely not worth wasting!

  8. AvatarCaroline

    I really love your version with the slimmer collar adjustments. It’s making me want to make a new coat but I made two last year and don’t *really need* a new one – but when does that ever stop us enthusiastic sewers?!

  9. AvatarAlaina

    Well, this is gorgeous! I’m about to attempt my first coat using the Closet Case Clare pattern (which I think is really designed with beginners in mind – and the detailed tutorial will save my butt!), but I love your Yona. I always love the look of the Named patterns, but am never sure if they’ll be too complicated for me, or if they are worth the money.

  10. AvatarHeather

    This is really beautiful Katie! I love the colour and contrasting black colour. I can see you getting tons of wear out of it! Hope you feel better soon!

  11. AvatarVeera

    Looks great! I actually have this same fabric in grey in my stash. Did you prewash yours? I’m thinking of making a Republic du Chiffon Gerard coat with mine.

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      I didn’t prewash, just gave it a steamy press. I don’t think I’ll wash the whole coat at home ever. It’s lovely stuff to work with. I love the Gerard pattern too!

  12. AvatarSonja

    This is absolutely gorgeous! I love the fabric you used and the contrasting collar detail. So cool! You’ve made me really want to make one, although I can hardly justify another coat, I’ve got so many already (and another in the works as it is)! But still, it’s absolutely gorgeous and envy-inducing!

  13. Pingback: Yona Coat: Proud as a Peacock | Sie macht

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