Guise Louise

Papercut Guise

Despite already having a TNT pattern for this type of pegged trouser shape (Burda 7017), I bought the Papercut Guise pattern just to see if I’d prefer it. For one reason or another (bad fabric, ruined from over-washing, poor construction) all my 7017s are pretty much out of action these days, so a new pair is definitely needed. I was also intrigued to see how the elasticated back waist of Guise was made and if it had any benefit over a fixed waistband. I made up this wearable toile in cheap poly crepe to test what I thought of it.

Papercut Guise

I don’t hate these or anything, there are just a few fit and style issues that mean I don’t like them as much as the 7017 pattern overall. Size wise┬áI cut a straight S going by the finished measurements. They do fit well but I feel like I’d want to make a series of minor tweaks to make them more like the 7017s. For example the rise falls a bit between mid and high; I think I’d like it an inch higher. Then the waist would be too big so I’d need to take it in… so I’m thinking I should probably just stick with 7017 next time, ha ha.

Papercut Guise

Back view – the elasticated band looks pretty bad when it’s visible (I couldn’t even bear to put up the photo!) so I’d feel like I need to to cover it. Which for me sort of defeats the purpose of high waisted mannish pants as I like to tuck in and show my waist.

Papercut Guise

They’re quite a demanding sew as well for casual pants: there’s thirteen pieces, several of which need to be cut in interfacing too, so the cutting and fusing took an entire unpleasant evening. In the end I wimped out of sewing the welt pockets and belt loops in this non-pressable poly which made it much faster. Anyway, the instructions are good and I followed the given fly directions with a good result. I really like the fit in the legs and the release tucks at the hip.

Papercut Guise

Another styling option where you can see the rise doesn’t hit at my smallest point so isn’t the most flattering. Soooo, I’m sort of of the fence about this pattern and probably won’t be too likely to make it up again. There are a lot of cute Guises out there – Lizzy, Sonja, and Julie – so I think it’s just a case of it not being right for my shape and style. Back to the 7017s for my definitive autumn trousers!

24 thoughts on “Guise Louise

  1. Gillian

    I really thought these would be right up your alley – but you are right, your other ones are definitely better! Hope you still get plenty of wear from these though! :)

  2. Heather

    Such a bummer, but I appreciate the honest review. I really want to like these pattern, but I have had the same worry about the elasticized back, and you confirmed it for me here. They do look really great on you in these photos though!

    1. Katie Post author

      I’m sure it would work on others (as I’ve linked to), just not me sadly! No fault of the pattern really.

  3. Anne

    Sounds like you’re right to think of sticking to the burda ones. Although I’m bigger than you and have more need of an elasticated waist, I don’t like them for much the same reasons you quote. These look fine from here, though.

    1. Katie Post author

      Thank you – I agree, they do look OK but don’t seem to fit so well into my style as a higher waisted pair. They are very comfortable, though!

  4. Thesewingmiserablist

    It’s so easy to be swayed by new patterns and I can see why these aren’t quite right. I noticed in the back view there is some slight pulling towards the knee, which suggests you may need a knock knee’d alteration, too, if you’re making some more.

    1. Katie Post author

      Good advice, I have noticed those sort of draglines before so I should look into a knock-knee adjustment.

  5. Sarah

    I’m going to be totally frank and say I’ve not been impressed with how this pattern has looked on anyone. That elasticated waist band is just so unstylish. I really loved all your other burda ones – stick with them for sure.

    1. Katie Post author

      I agree – I was drawn in by the pretty styling and being a Papercut fan generally. Oh well, can’t win them all! There may be something to salvage in here to take forward.

    1. Katie Post author

      Thank you – I’m just struggling to put together outfits with them to be honest, usually not a good sign.

  6. poppy

    they look good for a working toile but you’ve got to feel happy in them otherwise it defeates the point of making them. I’ve never made trousers other than pj’s, so going to give your fav Burda pattern a try!

    1. Katie Post author

      I actually think these would be quite a good first pants pattern, because they’re easy to fit and the instructions are really good – Burda aren’t quite so hot on the instructions. But either are a good bet!

    1. Katie Post author

      Did you notice I’m wearing the same shoes in both posts? Bit embarrassing, but I really love them too!

  7. Lizzy

    I think you are right. They do sit a little low on you. I think mine also sit a little low and loose on me too – which is probably why I don’t mind my back waistband as it’s not particularly gathered & probably needs to be tighter… but I didn’t want a puckered butt :-) my fabric also falls a little more softly and my pleats aren’t as pronounced.
    Like you, I love the fit through the legs and also achieved one of my best fly fronts yet with the instructions. I’ve got quite a few more patterns on my list to try, I quite interested to experiment with different companies, designers and see what works on me. Hopefully you find your perfect pants too!

    1. Katie Post author

      I love how you styled them, perfect for the beachy lifestyle, but I’m a bit stumped on how to wear these. If the waist was just a bit higher (and not elasticated) I would be wearing them a lot more I’m sure. Never mind, fun to sew and something learned!

  8. Nina

    I think they look quite good on you, though not as good as the Burda ones, indeed. Trousers are something that I am not ready to sew at all, the fitting looks so complicated since I have wide hips and quite a big bottom, so I’m quite afraid of how homemade trousers will look on me…
    I really love your top on the first pictures, the one with flowers. Is it homemade as well?

    1. Katie Post author

      Hi Nina. I have proportionally large hips too – typically 3+ sizes bigger than my waist – and I haven’t really encountered any extra fitting difficulty in trousers. In general the advice is to choose your size based on your hip measurement and bring the waist size down as needed.

      Yes I made the top, it’s a variation of the See Kate Sew Zippy Top in silk. I only had a tiny remnant so it’s a crop top but quite nice with these pants.

      1. Nina

        I guess I’ll give trousers a try when I feel ready! I’m really picky though, so I’m not even sure to find a pattern to my liking… Good thing I love dresses and that there are so much pretty patterns out there ;)
        May I ask if the fabric from the top can be found online? It’s SO pretty and totally my style! Thanks!

        1. Katie Post author

          Once you have made a few pairs you will find you can alter the designs to get them how you like! :)

          Sorry, it was a one off fabric from a sample sale so I don’t think you’ll be able to find it.

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