Here’s an overdue dump of four variations on basically the same pattern mashup, which I like to call three parts of the Fibremood Mindy and one part Tessuti Claudia. I made them over the course of the last year, so I’ve got the benefit of having worn them a great deal over the months since I’ve made them, so I can review which get the most wear and how they work in my wardrobe.

This was the first one I made last spring in the scorchio weather of lockdown 1, from lovely painterly Japanese seersucker gingham from Merchant and Mills. Unusually for me I went short in length and that means this one has seen the least wear – it’s a true roasty summer day or on-holiday sort of dress. However I love that eternal style inspiration Charlie made a fraternal twin version of this over in Brooklyn – maybe one day when holidays are a thing again we can rendezvous in them in person.

Made soon after and attempting to redress the wearability factor – a simple black viscose-linen one (I think this stuff) in straight midi length, short sleeves finished with a little elastic ruffle. This is great for working from home as it’s so easy to wear and also good to cycle in. Wear it loads.

Third from earlier this year, with photos taken in the Airbnb in Margate we just had a little break in – excuse the packing wrinkles – M&M tencel gingham with elbow length sleeves and a hem ruffle. I wear this one a ton; the slightly heavier fabric and coverage make it perfect for cooler days so it’s seen a lot of lockdown 2-3 outdoor drinks with pals.

Finally, I’d say perhaps my favourite purely for the fabric – a midi / no ruffle / elbow sleeve combo in deadstock viscose from Fabric Godmother. I don’t know which brand or designer FG gets these magical prints from (I heard Stine Goya mentioned but I’ve yet to find any matches in her RTW collections) but I find them so wearable despite the loudness and weirdness of the designs. I always watch each drop for ones that speak to me and is in my colours, and this Hong Kong one in particular makes me nostalgic for travels past. Fun fact I also spilled a very mustardy hot dog down myself that day and the print handily completely camouflaged the stain.

All of these variants use a base pattern which is the Fibremood Mindy from the bust up and the Tessuti Claudia dress from the empire line down (basically a gently flared out side seam). In terms of other adjustments, I slashed and overlapped a bit of volume out of the Mindy sleeves and probably (can’t quite remember) pivoted a bit of excess out of the front neckline to account for my narrow upper chest. And I simply removed the side vents and deep hem facing from the Claudia.

The Mindy’s construction where the sleeve meets the over-shoulder ‘strap’ and bodice top is a little difficult to get your head around first time but I think it’s actually quite neat – you basically ‘bind’ the gathered sleeve-head using the strap then sew it at a right angle along the bottom to wedge the strap into the bodice facing. (Yes, my marker dots apparently didn’t wash out; luckily the print hides those too…)

Part of me thinks this might be enough of this hack (Minaudia? Claundy?) – especially as I don’t think they’ll work so well in the cooler months, I don’t really like wearing tights with midis – but I’m also tempted to try another one with the original high waistline and gathered skirt as a further variation… or a top…!