Yup, it’s time for another instalment of my increasingly random global fabric shopping guides – this time in Mexico City and Oaxaca, where we’ve just got back from. (See also in this series: Ecuador, Tel Aviv, NYC.) Given its rich weaving and embroidering heritage, Mexico is a feast for pretty textiles so there was plenty to see, both to buy in the shops/markets and to admire in museums. I was also really pleased to find I rather effortlessly packed and wore probably about 80% me-mades on this trip, so thought I’d share a few photos of all those things.
Mexico City was admittedly not brilliant for fabric shopping, either modern stuff or more local and traditional woven cloths. I didn’t buy anything until we moved on to Oaxaca. The main modern fabric shops are all part of a chain called La Parisina, branches of which can be found just south of the Zocalo in the historic centre, and a couple more slightly north from there at Lagunilla (which is an utterly bizarre area full of tacky bridal shops, though apparently hosts a good flea market on Sundays).
I don’t know if was because it was October specifically, but all the shops had large, prominent displays of fun and festive Day of the Dead/Hallowe’en themed fabrics. Pretty cute, but I’m not sure how I’d use them!
Other than that, all the Parisina branches had similar stuff and prices. There’s a large contingent of gaudy novelty fleeces, lots of very bright poly prints, some more tasteful plaids, and often a smaller selection of wool and cashmere suiting and coating along with a large range of solid coloured poplins, lycras etc. Prices generally range from $20-80 MXN per metre, which is a cheapy cheap £1-4.
These super cheerful florals reminded me of Rachel! They felt rather like a starchy waxed cotton, I bet they’d soften up nicely in the wash but too bright for me.
Oaxaca also had two Parisina branches a couple of blocks south of the Zolaco. One of them – on the north corner of Aldama and Flores Magon streets – was pretty great; I’m not sure if it actually had nicer stuff or was laid out a bit better or I was just feeling spendy, but I bought a few bits here: some autumnal plaids and a wool mix trousering.
There’s also another fabric shop right on Oaxaca’s Zocalo called El Palacio de las Telas, which is set behind a restaurant called El Importador (or they have the same name? it was a bit confusing).
This one had classier stuff: a whole wall of cashmere suitings behind the counter, some very pretty floral chambrays and lawns, and lots of dress weight prints. I think some of the fabrics are Japanese imports, like the intricate black/grey prints and Liberty style florals. They also had a wall of laces including some very pricey guipure lace behind glass at nearly $800/m. Prices were a little higher overall, starting at around $85 and up, but I think it was much nicer quality than Parisina. I bought some silk-mix dress prints and some gorgeous floral chambray.
Another place worth a mention is the town of Tlacolula, about a 30-minute drive from Oaxaca city. It has a massive – I mean MASSIVE – market every Sunday, when people from all the nearby towns descend to trade, shop and socialise. It was a highlight of the trip, though slightly crazy and disorientating at the same time! A few of the thousands of market stalls sold haberdashery, lace trimmings, and the checked cotton used to make the traditional Zapotec embroidered aprons that the ladies wear to run errands and cook in. (I brought a ready-made one home, you can see it below). I really should have stocked up on lace and zips as they were ridiculously cheap. There was also, bizarrely, a regular little grocery corner shop that we popped into for bottled water which had several bolts of fabric at the back. Take note Waitrose.
Onto museums. First and most obviously the Textile Museum in Oaxaca, which is a lovely free little museum housing Irmgard Weitlaner-Johnson’s collection of rare and precious handwoven historical textiles. She spent most of her life travelling to villages in Oaxaca state, collecting and cataloguing a vast variety of indigenous textiles.
I especially loved how most exhibits had a typed description of the techniques used and often even a diagram and instructions. You can buy mostly readymade garments and smallish shawls in the attached shop.
The Museo de Arte Popular near the Zocalo in DF is a sweet folk art museum housed in a gorgeous whitewashed art deco townhouse. There were some charming embroideries and more examples of richly textural traditional clothing amongst the exhibits.
All the huipils reminded me of Marilla’s Maya top pattern!
Frida Kahlo’s old house Casa Azul in Coyoacan was another trip highlight. I was pleased to find that the Vogue-sponsored exhibition of her clothing (most of it unearthed from storage after the death of Diego Rivera) was still running, and provided a fascinating insight into the ways Kahlo portrayed her thoughts and feelings through clothing.
Check that for embellishment…
Finally, here are some me-mades that got an airing on the trip. I love taking dresses on holiday, they roll right down to nothing and work for both heat and cooler weather with leggings/tights. My patchwork dress unpacked admirably non-creasy considering it’s mostly linen, and was great for a hot day in Coyoacan.
My Liberty zippy dress, which also packed very well..
…I wore it take a cooking class in the weaving town of Teotitlan, and the apron I bought.
The recent wax Holly dress, worn to the ancient archaeological site at Monte Alban.
This is as yet unblogged, it’s a Pattern Runway Gathered Sundress in a dreamy ikat from Cloth House that I made near the end of the summer. I’ll write it up if anyone wants more details on it? I really love it, especially the directional pattern placements.
My swimsuit got a real outing in some water, yay! It held up totally great, dried out extremely well and felt great to swim in. (I’m still tinkering with the pattern and also attempted some multi-size grading to make one for my sister, which is proving challenging yet fun to mess around with.) I also wore my other Holly, shibori silk tee and new jeans – I’ve run out of photos though! Phew, back to your regular scheduled sewing soon, and my to-sew list is looking distinctly autumnal – coats, cardis and more jeans here we come.
Fabulous post – I feel like I’ve had a mini-break! A feast of vicarious fabric shopping & gorgeous textiles in the museum. I love the ikat fabric sundress. Thank you for sharing!
Glad I could share a bit of the colour and sunshine!
What a fabulous post but how frustrating not to be able to buy some of those gorgeous fabrics you have highlighted!
Ha ha, sorry about that :]
So bright! Those museum pieces looked amazing. Sigh. I need a holiday!
Looks like you visited some great fabric shops! Thanks for sharing – I love seeing what you can get in different places. Hope you had a great trip!
I did, thanks! Glad my Shaukat post was useful to you as well.
Aren’t you so proud of your me-mades after you put them through a rigorous test, in this csse traveling, and they get an A+ !
Definitely! The shift toward me-mades over rtw being my most favourite items to wear is a v encouraging one.
Oh. An you’ve got me missing Mexico! Looks like you had a good trip!!
I did, it’s a beautiful country!
Thanks for the insight into Mexican fabric shopping! It’s fun to see that kind of thing. I absolutely love your ikat dress.
Thank you! Hope I can wear it through the winter with cardi and tights, even though it’s a ‘sundress’.
Great post. I am so jealous of all the lovely trips you have had! Loved your ‘me-made’ travel wardrobe too, dresses are a perfect traveling companion.
It’s been a very good year for travelling – I’ve got the packing pretty down now!
I would not have been able to resist those plaids! Looks like the had a lovely range :)
They are lovely aren’t they? I brought two home – one to line a coat and one for a dress. Rare to find such a large range of colourways.
Hi Katie,
Glad you had a lovely trip to MX. I have been living here for five years and, as a sewist, find the selection of synthetic fabrics sad and sticky. I currently live in Puerta Vallarta where there are zero stores stocking cottons or linens.
A note on the lovely selection of plaids – all schools k-12 require students to wear uniforms. The plaids represent the many uniforms worn.
Happy travels,
Miss V
Thanks for the message! Interesting regarding the plaids, and I agree it was a shame to not find more natural fibres, especially in that heat.
I live in Oaxaca, Morelos, and I too find little of interest in the Parisina stores, which are everywhere. Sadly, few sell patterns, and unlike my sewing sis-in-law, I’m not good at drafting my own. Most fabric I find is cheap and feels lousy, or is meant for home decor. The zocalo in DF has lots of variety, but again not what I would use. Interesting blog, this, but stuff here looks nicer than it is… except maybe that one shop I
n Oaxaca!
Ah, looks like you had a great time and packed a lot in! Love the me-made holiday wardrobe!
Oh, and thank you so much for the mention! :-)
I love these posts, looks like you had an amazing time and got some great fabrics :)
looks like you had a great time! as it happens, my husband is traveling to that area for work in a few weeks… been tempted to ask him to check out the fabric scene!
Cool! There wasn’t much in the way of yardage of traditional type fabrics, but you could ask for some huipils or very cheap modern plaids ;)
Hi Katie, I love the fabrics you have photographed in Mexico! I have just started teaching myself to sew and as we now live on secondment in Gabon, West Africa. I have access to some lovely African fabrics in the local village . We are off to Mexico City and Puerto Vallarta in February so am hoping to pick up some Mexican fabrics then. I was a bit disappointed to see nothing brilliant in MC though so I will have to see what I can find! Was it really that poor for fabric shopping :-( ? Love your page – it’s an inspiration! Thanks, Karen
Hi Karen! Lucky you, I love African fabrics. Have a fab trip to Mexico, you may have better luck than me with the shopping!
I am trying, in vain here in S. Calif., to find the fabric that is used in the casual clothing at Mexican retail stores. It is a rough cotton material — dyed mostly–but I am interested in white. Do you know where I could order some of this? Do you know what I mean by the rough cotton?
I believe what you are referring to is called “manta”. I love this fabric, but not all fabric stores carry it. It’s kind of the Mexican equivalent to muslin, but it’s much, much nicer in my opinion. I’ve never really seen it in the states. I have found it at smaller, independently own fabric stores in Manzanillo and Leon… Never at the big chain, La Parasina.
Thanks so much for sharing. I live in San Miguel de Allende and headed next week to CDMX (formerly DF) to fabric shop for small biz. It may all be for naught but hopefully, La Parisina has larger supply than here and we will visit El Junco too. Wish I had had more time to visit fabric shops in Oaxaca (and read your blog first). Went to El Bayon in Queretaro last week and that helped our supply needed to restock products. I am wondering if Guadalajara has more fabric shops too. Quality 100% cotton a rare find here.
Any leads appreciated
Saludos
Joey
Leon has a fabric shop called “Telas del Rio”. It is the best fabric store I’ve found in Mexico so far. There is cotton, linen and even silk! Prices are varied and there’s still plenty of Parasina stuff too, but it’s worth the drive for me (I live in Guanajuato). I noticed that the same store is also in CDMX. I hope that helps!
Going to mexico for fabric shopping. Looking for large amounts, natural fibers, and some knits as well as wovens. Any suggestions
Is oaxaca close to mexico city
I struggled to find natural fibres anywhere, though there must be some! No, they are about 7-8 hours apart by road or a short plane ride.
Hi Katie, my sister and I were recently in Oaxaca. We love beautiful textiles but weren’t sure where to find any. Your blog came up on Google and brought us to the fabric stores mentioned here! BTW, I think the second fabric store is called “El Importador”, as captured in one of your photos. We got a lovely thick cotton woven there. Any idea what the name of the yarn hats in the museum photo is? If you are ever in LA, I think you would love Michael Levine fabrics. We have a Mood fabrics here too. Thank you for this post!
Please tell me how I can order some of the beautiful fabrics
Oh, fabric shopping in Mexico…..I adore fabric. Real, quality, natural fiber fabrics. They are rare to find in Mexico, unfortunately. I live in Guanajuato and we only have la parasina. Sigh. Next month we are going to CDMX, and I was hoping maybe, maybe I’d find A good shop. I googled fabric stores, and there is a “Telas del Rio”. I go to the same store in Leon. It actually has linen, silk, and nicer fabrics in general. The prices are varied… Some are much less than stores in the States, other prices (the linen prices shot through the roof over a few month period…I don’t know why) are higher than in the states. Anyhow, Incase anyone finds this blog post and is curious, I do know that one store is pretty good…. Much better than La Parasina, at any rate.
I am looking for a few different types of material. 100% linen, 95% rayon 5% spandex and 80% rayon 20% nylon. I’m wanting to purchase bulk material in Mexico rather than the US if the break down of cost makes sense. Hoping you can point me in the right direction.
Thanks
Hi Katie, my name is Pam Boersen and I am a seamstress living in Michigan, USA. I am looking for manta fabric to make some garments for myself. Can you help me.
Hi Pam, did you have any luck finding manta?
Hey there, I’ll be moving to Mexico in the next year or so. I have a dance costume and children’s clothing business . Did you find dance costumes fabric Eg nylon spandex etc on your travels in Mexico? I’ve been searching and so far no luck.
Branches of Parisina found in many Mexican cities certainly stock those kinda of fabrics. Check out https://www.laparisina.mx.