Crimson and Clover

Papercut Clover

This charming earworm wouldn’t leave my head the entire time I was sewing this dress, so I had to don some appropriately-hued accessories it photograph it with. I’m sure you recognise by the distinct bodice detail peeking out that it’s a Papercut Clover dress.

Papercut Clover

I didn’t buy this pattern right after it came out, but was slowly persuaded by so many pretty ones popping up: see Fiona, Rachel, Devon and Hazel. I bought a hard copy directly from Papercut in New Zealand as I really like their packaging and pattern paper, and sewed it up in the evenings this week.

Papercut Clover
Papercut Clover

This was a test run to check fit and construction, but I finished it pretty much as final and it turned out perfectly wearable, hurrah. The fabric’s a cheap poly crepe from an Abakhan dash, with the bodice detail and sleeves in a random black silk from my stash. I haven’t seen anyone do a contrast sleeve version yet but personally I think they help to balance the bust detail rather nicely. Fitting is pretty easy with such a relaxed shape and it seems true to the size chart for a slightly oversized fit. I cut a small with zero modifications and don’t think I would change anything next time.

Papercut Clover

You’ll notice I did give the dress a permanent waistline, simply by sewing a line of elastic on the inside right around where my waist hits. There’s no chance I’d wear this style loose and I don’t really like wearing belts, so adding a perma-cinched waist seemed a good idea. I like how it blouses out a bit but beware it makes the skirt ride up and appear shorter: I didn’t shorten it from the pattern at all which is rare for me.

Papercut Clover

It’s easiest to try the dress on, cinch with a belt and mark where it sits at the side seams and CF/CB, then connect the marks with a straight line to sew over with the elastic. You could also still wear a belt over the elastic and it’d stay nicely in place – I hate when belts shift around.

Papercut Clover

Overall the dress was a quick and easy sew; the hardest bits are the curved hem and getting a nice joined-up seam on the bust detail. Just one thing to nit-pick with the pattern: the bust detail pieces end in a sharp point rather than having a bevelled-off seam allowance (like the D&D Centauree’s do) so it’s kind of hard to gauge where to position it against the bodice edge to sew at the 1cm seam allowance. It seems like the point should run off the edge of the centre front, so I’ll probably just square it off on the pattern piece.

That aside, I’m pretty sure I’ll be making more Clovers sooner rather than later. It’s a great one to chuck on and feel instantly dressed as well as super comfortable. I love the blouse length option too and I’m interested to try lengthening the sleeves a bit. You could maybe say I’ll be going ‘into the Clover, over and over…’

22 thoughts on “Crimson and Clover

  1. AvatarSam

    The contrast sleeves look lovely, I’m definitely going to try that at some stage. I tried the elastic waist finish on the one I made, but it just looked odd. I think I must have positioned it wrongly somehow.

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      It’s tricky to place it right, I ripped my first try as it ended up curved downwards at the side seams and had another go.

  2. Avatarmokosha

    it looks realy good with contrast sleeves! there is something about proportions of that pattern that looks a bit odd to me, but your version is super cute! also, i really like the print you used (well, i always like prints you use :))

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      Thanks! I agree the proportions are funny without the waistline – it looked awful on me before I added it!

  3. AvatarLayla

    I like the contrast sleeves a lot! I toyed with this on my version but it was vetoed when I sought advice…I also almost put in the elastic waist. Next time (It’ll be my third!) I think I’ll totally copy you and do both!

  4. AvatarFiona

    Lovely Katie! I really like the contrast sleeves and might have to steal that idea for when I get round to making another one! I also found the bust detail tricky to line up so might try altering the pattern pieces in paper as you suggest

  5. AvatarHazel

    Love this Katie! The contrast sleeve looks great and with the elastic waist makes it look different from all the other versions I’ve seen. You always give me a major sewing crush when I see your makes!

  6. AvatarGinger

    This is so cute on you! I have this pattern and really want to make one, but I just don’t wear dresses in cooler weather. Seeing your contrast sleeves makes me think I could make a cute top version, though! Thanks for the inspiration!

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      Thanks! To be honest I changed out of it after taking the photos – I was really cold! I think a top would be warmer and easier to layer in the winter.. I’m even imagining a sweatshirt knit version.

  7. AvatarDevon

    cute!! like everyone else i love the contrast sleeves! i think you’re totally right, they keep the ‘v’ shape from just kind of floating there in the middle of everything.

    1. AvatarKatie Post author

      Thanks! Yes, I think that’s why I’m digging the matching sleeves, especially when the detail’s in a big contrast colour like black.

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