Finally, one pretty much finished coat toile. Er, yes, it looks a bit different to last time. After my previous toile I had another rethink, looking at my old coat that I love and realising I wanted to tweak a few things to make it more similar.
The major adjustment was adding a hood, something I decided I didn’t want to be without over the rainy British winter. This meant scrapping the old lapel and collar – fine by me as they were proving a pain to construct. Making the hood was really straightforward: I traced the pieces (2 x lining, facing and outer) from my other coat and assembled it all leaving the neckline edge open.
Then I removed the collar and facings from my toile, cut the front neckline edge straight across, and stitched the outside edge of the hood to the shell of my coat. Pleasingly the hood fitted perfectly around the neckline with no further adjustments needed. (I took this photo before removing the facings – realised it was better to attach the facings to the lining rather than the coat fronts at this stage.)
All raw edges nicely enclosed by the lining. I’ll put some kind of fastening on the flappy bits so I can close it up around my neck when it gets really chilly. I’ll also interface it on the final coat to make it stiffer and sturdier. I think I’ll also put a fastening on the coat front where the facing naturally turns: probably a cool pleather buckle of some sort inspired by Meg’s awesome take on this pattern.
Sorry for the rubbish photo. Ugh, so dark and gloomy this week. Lining the toile actually turned out to be pretty painless – but only because I completely ignored the pattern instructions and instead mostly followed Jen Grainline’s tutorial. It made MUCH more sense, especially being able to see photos for each step. I’ve also removed even more of the excess fabric from the front and sides so it bares scant resemblance to the original pattern now, in both looks and construction.
I’ve bought my final fabric! Dalston Mill came through – thank you Clare for the tip. I found this pettably soft charcoal wool with an almost peachskin finish for £17.50 a metre. (Reluctantly given up on the colourblocking idea as the likelihood of finding two perfect shades in the same wool seemed near impossible.) It’s a slightly stressful place to shop, with barely enough space to squeeze through the cramped aisles and the pushy shop staff watching you like hawks, ready to swoop if you dare touch the bolts of fabric on your own. But they have an amazing range of wool coatings and suitings, and probably anything else you would ever need too.
I especially lurve my lining: a brushed check in moody bruise-y shades of brown, blue and green at £7.60/m. I hope it will peek out here and there as it’s too pretty to be hidden inside. Might even do the welts in it, y/n?
Speaking of which, I’m getting lots of practice in on the welts before doing the real thing. Accuracy is not my forte and you really, really need your stitching to be spot on for these to look good. I am already loving working with this coating though, it presses and sews up a dream. Now to cut it up and get going for real… *deep breath*
(Josh also picked out this light wool plaid at Dalston Mill for himself, which he’s requested a winter button-down shirt in. Eek, sewing for someone else will be my next challenge!)