Coat planning

So I’m really not one to start looking forward to autumn/winter after the first couple of weeks of summer. I dread it to be honest: I’m definitely a sunny weather person and my SAD kicks in as soon as the cold and dark starts drawing in. But here’s one thing to look forward to: I’ve decided to sew myself a nice autumnal jacket/coat this year. I’ve had the same short, swing-y royal blue duffel coat for about 7 years because I haven’t found anything I like as much in the shops, and it definitely needs to be retired soon. I think it’d be a great challenge to set myself to make my own this year, and it means I can design it exactly how I want. I know I want something colour blocked, probably in browns and greys. Pockets are obviously a requirement, and it must look good over both skinny jeans and dresses. I rarely get that cold in London so I don’t need anything too heavy and ‘coaty’, and I’ll be cycling so lots of armhole movement is a must.

coatplan1

My current frontrunner is this Burda short swing coat, a copy of an original 50s style. It’s pretty similar to my old duffel, though I’m a bit worried about the very voluminous shape and heavy yoke gathering – could get a bit unflattering. It would be easy to colourblock since the yoke and sleeves are separate pieces to the main body. Fabric choice would be really important here: it needs some weightiness to make it hang nicely but anything too thick will make the gathers monstrous. I’m considering a boiled wool but wonder if the grey ponte knit I picked up at Rolls and Rems would work out ok. I’ve already bought and pieced together this pattern, but the typically Burda-style lack of detail in the instructions is worrying me already. Welt pockets, lining, collar facings… eek! I think a practice toile is definitely in order first.

Any other jacket/coat patterns you’ve seen that you think might fit my criteria? And any tips for where to look for coating fabrics in London? I think that feeling up the fabrics in person will be important to get the right weight I’m after.

12 thoughts on “Coat planning

  1. Clare Szabo

    Love this swing coat, looks like a really cute option. Have you tried Dalston Mill on Ridley Road (Dalston)? At the back of their shop they have ALOT of wool and suiting fabric. I am going to check some out again as want to make a coat soon too.

    1. Katie Post author

      Cute isn’t it? I just wish the instructions were better!

      Aaah that’s right down the road from me so I’ll definitely go take a look. I got a bit overwhelmed on my first visit there…

  2. MadeByMeg

    I just found your blog browsing Tania Culottes, and I am laughing right now because we seem to have such the same taste! I swear the chambray Scout Tee I made this weekend looks just like the one you posted, and you seem to be the only other person on the planet interested in sewing this coat (I made one up this past winter). Can’t wait to see what you make next!

    1. Katie Post author

      Oh that’s funny, they are so similar! Love all the pants you’ve made too – I want to do jeans and chinos soon.

      I saw your version of the coat from the Burda page, it came out so nice – I love what you did with the collar and buckles.

      I don’t suppose you would be up for giving me a bit of pattern guidance over email?! I’ve figured out the collar facings now but I can’t for the life of me decipher how to sew in the lining.

  3. emily marie

    Oh, it’s going to be adorable! I love a good swing coat and this one is a really nice length. I agree that you’ll have to see the fabric in person to know if it’s a good weight/drape to look right with all that gathering. Just take the lack of instruction as a chance to learn from/buy more good sewing books. :)

    1. Katie Post author

      Yes, that’s true! Welt pockets and linings are definitely two things I’d like to learn so I’ll have to be patient and do a few practice runs, I think

  4. Stevie

    Ohh cute coat! I think I would go for Truro fabrics and invest in some of their wools. They do samples at 80p or so but then it comes off of your order if you buy within two weeks which I don’t think is too bad and they have some yummy colours!
    x

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