Category Archives: Pattern – paid

Space dress: Simplicity 1651

Here’s my newest dress – and my favourite yet. The universe puked up all over it forgodsakes.

Space dress

The pattern is Simplicity 1651 from their Project Runway series, which as far as I can tell means that you get a lot of variations in the pattern envelope in order to ‘design’ the dress yourself. This one has two options each for the sleeves, front bodice, back bodice and skirt. I bought it because it has all sorts of cool details like the double-layered cap sleeves and the strappy back. I quite like the twisted front version too for another time.

Space dress

The fabric is repurposed from ahem, a kids’ duvet cover. You may recognise the same one from Emily’s Elisalex dress – she took my idea and I pinched it back :) I was a bit worried about the quality and drape initially but actually I think it suits this pattern very well – anything drapier would have made the back droop and lose the skirt shape. Plus at a tenner and with only half of it used, it must be the thriftiest dress ever.

Space dress

I spent ages getting the fit just right, after an initial panic on realising that Simplicity patterns are way off RTW sizes and the biggest size in the pack I ordered, a US 12, was only just big enough – I’m usually US 6-8! Anyway, the size 12 ended up fine – the front bodice darts fitted well with no adjustment and I got no neckline gaping for a change. The back was a little trickier, but I knew it would be as my spine’s slightly curved and normal dresses rarely fit properly, never mind with weird straps thrown into the mix. I just tried the dress on after the zip was fitted and pinned the shoulder seams and back straps in the right place. I’ve never done so much baste-and-try-on, but it was worth it as the dress feels well-fitted and comfortable.

Space dress

Other small modifications: I reduced the circle radius of the skirt a bit as I didn’t want it to be stiff and lampshade-y, and I made the front neckline a curved scoop shape rather than the angled line of the pattern. I did the double cap sleeve option, which I think suit the whole galactic theme.

Space dress
Space dress

It’s the first pattern I’ve bought from a big pattern house rather than an indie designer, and I found the flimsy tissue paper and lack of attention to detail rather off-putting. At least one piece was mis-labelled and the paper was really hard to cut cleanly in one direction. Having said that, the instructions are pretty well laid out with a good level of detail, and I didn’t have trouble following any of the steps.

Space dress
Space dress

Space guts! The dress is fairly tidy inside, and I’m especially pleased with the side zip, which is just a regular one (all my local shop had) but looks concealed thanks to this brilliant technique I stumbled across. Using sticky tape for sewing feels so wrong but it worked great. I successfully installed neckline facings on the front and back for the first time too. It could actually do with being fully lined but I’m not quite smart enough to figure out how to do that yet. Maybe next time…

Recent sews and The Shop

Tania culottes

Here are the final things I made during the end of Me-made May. First, a pair of jazzy culottes! I love culottes: the practicality of breeze-resistant shorts with the cuteness of a little flippy skirt is a winner to me. The pattern is the new Megan Nielsen Tania culottes, bought from M is for Make.

Tania culottes

The pattern was really fun to put together – it felt almost like magical origami creating the pleats and crotch with simple folds and lines of stitching. The only thing I mucked up is the waistband with some wobbly topstitching – I might unpick and redo it neater. I also haven’t properly finished the bottom edge yet because I’m terrible at hemming, so it’s just overlocked for now.

Vintage fabric

The fabric is a vintage piece of 70s polyester with a gorgeous Scandinavian-looking mountain print. I love how the patten drape makes the peaks point up and outwards, a little reminiscent of fireworks. Just don’t make the mistake I did of ironing interfacing onto polyester with a hot iron – I burnt a clean plastic-scented hole through my first waistband piece, and luckily had just enough fabric to cut another. I’ll definitely be using this pattern again; in fact I’ve just bought some jersey that I think will make a great no-zip-required version.

Feather tee
Vintage fabric

(Excuse my face, I appear to have the dead eyes of someone who’s been worrying for three weeks straight..) This is another Scout, although radically different from my last one. The front is made from a vintage silk scarf, which was happily just the right size for the pattern piece. The sleeves and back are the same grey jersey as my ballet dress. Very pleased that this turned out just how I imagined it. The Scout tee is such an amazing pattern: so simple but hangs so well despite having no darts or shaping, and the possibilities for creative variations are vast.

Vintage fabric

Finally, a fail. I tried to take photos but they looked too awful to share! It was supposed to be a Sureau dress by Deer & Doe, made from a super soft piece of vintage cotton with an abstract tulip print, above. It seems in sewing that lots of small mistakes can add up to a big mess of a garment, which sadly I think happened here. I chose a size too big so the fit isn’t quite right. The neckline was gaping so I attempted a shoulder-line fix, then added a half collar which sits wonkily. The sleeve caps billow at the back. The skirt twists annoyingly to the side. I’m not sure if I’ll try and fix it some more, or cut it down into a skirt maybe. It would be a shame to waste the pretty fabric completely. Perhaps I should start making toiles before cutting the real fabric.

theshop1

All of the fabrics came from The Shop on Cheshire St, which I visited with Jen one lunchtime (check out Jen’s blog for some much better photos and info, this unprepared blogger didn’t have her camera). It is indeed the treasure trove that countless bloggers promised: walls lined with shelves of vintage fabric, with even more stuffed into drawers and baskets underneath which you’re encouraged to rummage through. There’s everything from recycled curtains to half-finished handmade skirt pieces, plus loads of large pieces of 2-4 metre long cottons and polys, perfect for skirt or dress projects.

theshop2

There’s also a great line in vintage notions, and basket upon basket of vintage silk scarves at around a fiver a pop. At the back are curtains, cushions and clothing and there’s also plenty of knitted scarves and crochet blankets. Prices are eye-poppingly amazing, ranging from a few quid for the smaller bits to no more than £15 for larger pieces (my take-home stash that made everything in this post was only £18). You’d be hard pushed to find such a lovely variety of prints in new fabrics for those kinds of prices. Find The Shop at 3 Cheshire St just off the top of Brick Lane – I’ll be back to replenish my stash very soon.

Ballet dress & raglan tee: Dixie DIY

When I’m not working or pottering in the garden in the springlike weather (finally!) I’ve been spending every spare minute sew-sew-sewing. I’m fully loving my overlocker again, so both of this week’s makes are in jersey. Funnily enough, both patterns are from Dixie DIY too.

Jersey ballet dress

This is the Dixie ballet dress, made in some charcoal grey jersey from Tissu. I followed the pattern pretty much to the letter, just shortening the sleeves and adding a cuff. The sleeves and armholes came out a little loose: I think because I can’t figure out how to compensate for reduced seam allowance when overlocking around armhole seams. I still love this dress anyway, it’s so comfortable and the kind of thing I’ll wear all the time. (Yes, the cat must appear in all my MMMay photos now.)

Raglan tee

I used the leftover fabric along with some pink-marl jersey from Minerva for this raglan tee, based on the free Dixie Hot Cocoa pattern and very much inspired by Bee’s Madewell tee. Two-tone raglans for the win!

Raglan tee

I just lengthened the body, shortened the sleeves and added my now-traditional UCP (Useless Chest Pocket), which I interfaced before sewing on so it didn’t get all stretched out. The bottom hem is just overlocked, but it looks kind of unfinished so I think I’ll hem it properly. Such a quick, fun sew, I’ll definitely make more.

I really want to make Dixie’s two-piece tunic as well, so I’m on the lookout for some interesting fabric to try it in – I think something vintage would work well.

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Chambray Scout tee

Scout chambray tee

Not a week into the month and my first Me-Made May task is complete. And I’m calling it a success! Here’s my Marc-Jacobs-inspired woven chambray tee, made in just a day and happily worn already.

Scout chambray tee

It feels almost like I cheated since this make was such a breeze. The Scout tee pattern I used is so simple that the cutting and sewing took about four hours total. Of course I still managed to mess up a bit: I sewed on one of the sleeves inside out so there’s an exposed seam tucked under the arm. I coud fix it, but no one realistically will see it and I almost like keeping it there as an ‘I made this!’ Easter egg.

Scout chambray tee
Scout chambray tee

One of my favourite things about making my own clothes is adding the little details that make your garment totally unique – purposeful decisions as well as inside-out sleeves, I mean. Want longer turned-back cuffs, a curved hem, denim-style topstitched seams, a comedically large patch pocket? Do it! With such as simple pattern it’s a nice chance to go a bit mad with embellishments.

Scout chambray tee

Mistakes aside, this is definitely my most successful handmade garment so far. I did all of the seams on my overlocker which gives it a lovely finish on the inside as well as allaying my fear that it’ll fall apart in the wash. I’m really happy with the fabric choice too: the chambray is light and soft with good drape and a little comfy stretch. I went a size up for an oversized look and it’s much more forgiving in the fit department that way too. I’ll definitely be using the Scout pattern again: I have visions of one in this nutty cat print fabric.

Scout chambray tee

So that’s the first Me-Made May task down, keep ’em coming! Next? I’ve just ordered the Sew U book about stretch fabrics on Kathryn‘s recommendation to give me ideas for my jersey fabrics. As a brucey bonus, I have almost a yard of this chambray left which I might just be able to squeeze a little skater skirt out of too.

Pattern: Scout woven tee from Grainline
Pattern modifications: Lengthened sleeves and added turned-back cuff. Lengthened body. Curved hemline. Patch pocket.
Fabric: Pale blue Chambray from Minerva Crafts (bought 2yds, plenty left over)

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