Category Archives: Finished items 2017

Ronja-rees

Allo allo! I haven’t had much time for either sewing or blogging lately, but I have been thinking about it a lot, as ever. At the weekend a bit of enforced-relaxation time meant I could get stuck into a nice project with a shiny new pattern.

Like a lot of the sewosphere I went totally heart-eyed for Named’s new spring collection, Playground. I bought two printed patterns pretty quickly: the Ansa butterfly dress/blouse and these, the Ronja dungarees. I loved the apron-style top, fitted waistline and on-trend cropped straight leg.

I cut a straight size 14/42 as I find Named quite narrow through the hips for my pear shape and wanted a comfortable fit through the waist. Overall this decision turned out well: there are double back and single front darts so they end up roomy through the hips and snug at the waist.

I think next time I will alter the shape of the bib piece a bit though. I feel like it’s quite skimpy, not wide enough across the top in particular, and almost like I need to FBA it – I’m not sure how I’d go about that! Looking at the picture below the back seems a little baggy, but a bit of ease is needed to be able to move and bend in them.

One key alteration I made was to swap the buttoned side fastenings for a simple centre-back invisible zip. I thought I’d prefer the more streamlined look and also fancied doing a technique I’ve got pretty good at than something new and potentially tricky, ha. I also made self-fabric straps rather than the ribbon the pattern calls for.

My fabric is a forest green brushed twill from Ditto that I’ve had in my stash since I went to their Brighton store for my birthday last year. Weight-wise I think it’s a good match but that peached finish does show every little dent and wrinkle. The pockets and bib are lined in lightweight cotton lawn (spot the leftover Liberty from my Sudley dress!).

The instructions are very clear and you’re left with a lovely clean finish inside. The waist is finished with facings which also hide the raw bib edges, and the pockets also have a facing before the lawn lining starts. Lovely little details which I’ve come to admire from Named. I reckon these will join my Roberts dungarees in regular rotation, and I also want to make another pair, perhaps in denim, to adjust the little fitting niggles I found.

Magical McCall 7445

You know it’s a true love sewing project when a) I peel myself out of bed a little early on a school day to photograph them in the semi-dark for the old bloggo and b) I want to wear them so much, I do so even on a highly weather-inappropriate day. It’s close to freezing here in London and here I am, flashing a bit of ankle in my snazzy new pants.


These are the wide-leg cropped pants (yes, more!) from McCall 7445, which I got – and is still currently – half off at Minerva Crafts. This is a design by Melissa Watson for the Palmer-Pletsch line, and I actually discovered the pattern via Melissa’s Instragram feed showing her own versions of the pattern. Look at her silk velvet pair in action – swoon! I made view B, which has an exposed front zip and a waist facing instead of a waistband.

Fun fact time – Melissa is Pati Palmer’s daughter, and in case you didn’t know Palmer-Pletsch are known for being the goddesses of fitting. They’ve written several books on the subject and pioneered the tissue-fitting system. An unexpected bonus of this pattern is that the instructions have thorough guidance on how to tissue-fit the pants and make common alterations – flat/full butt adjustments, sway back, crotch curve adjustments, that sort of thing. The pants also have a one-inch seam allowance on the side seams for easier fitting. I assume all of the Palmer-Pletsch line patterns have the same?


As it happens, the size 14 was basically perfect on me out of the packet – or they look pretty good to me, anyway – so I didn’t need to use any of the enclosed advice. After basting at the given one-inch I ended up shaving about an extra half-inch or so off the waistline but that’s it in terms of adjustments. My measurements are actually a little over a Big 4 size 14, but they come up typically large, and I was also using a fabric with a slight stretch, a fine needlecord from Croft Mill, which meant I wanted to get them nice and snug. I also took one inch off the length.

They came together super fast, a few hours on Sunday evening. Turns out exposed zip flies are the easiest ever! It sounds gushy but I just love every detail of this design. It’s pretty rare I make a pattern exactly as designed without fiddling around with it, but these really are the one. It makes sense I guess since Melissa seems like a super stylish lady from her Instagram feed… alright, now I’m definitely gushing.


Internal details (excuse the fluff, needlecord loves it!): I love the squared-off pockets, which I lined with leftover silk from my Helmi dress, and the sleek self-faced waistline. I’m gonna make another pair of these pretty fast in some olive green heavy crepe I’ve got in my stash, perhaps with a concealed size zip.

And they’re a second tick off the 2017makenine list, hurrah. Yay for pants that make me want to dance!