This outfit seems to be telling me spring is in the air – or it was when I took the photos last week, it seems to have dipped back into grey today :( I always seem to be drawn towards lighter, brighter colours as the weather gets nicer. I’ve even dip-dyed my hair lighter to celebrate. Alright, ignore the boring grey (non-me-made) tee, but the trousers are my new pair of Burda 7017s, and I really kinda love them.
There are only six pieces to deal with in this pattern, and the fitting and style details are minimal but effective. Yoked slanted side pockets, front pleats, back darts, a button and zip fly… all very straightforward. (View B also contains hem cuffs and belt loops, if you’re inclined.) Sewing them up was fun and easy, and I got most of it done in one Sunday afternoon session.
I needed no fit alterations besides lowering the rise by about 1.5″ – it’s nearly natural waist height which is too much for casual pants and also unflattering with front pleats. They’re still quite high, but any lower and I’d have to muck about making the waist bigger. I had to angle in the back waist a little to prevent gaping: the directions have you sew this seam last so it’s easy to fix, but I don’t understand why any pattern comes with a straight rectangular waistband: surely that will fit no one with any hint of curves? Next time I’ll draft a curved band using the tips here. On the plus side I didn’t have to fiddle with the leg width or length at all, as I usually do; I really like the fit being loose on the thighs and slimmer down to the ankle.
The fabric is Premier Prints’ Cameron, bought from fabric.com. I swear I ordered the twill but seem to have ended up with cotton duck instead. Duck is more often used for home decor makes as it’s tough and non-stretch. I think twill would have been more comfortable, but actually these feel fine too. They also feel nice and rigid so I don’t think they’ll stretch out much.
The waistband is doubly interfaced and also cut a little smaller than the pants top and eased in, so I hope it’s not going to bag out. I overlocked all the seams for speed, but next time I’ll flat-fell and topstitch for a more durable, jeans-style finish. The fly front is constructed in a different way to usual: the facings are integrated into the front pattern pieces and turned to the inside, then the zip’s stitched to each side in turn, then the fly shield is stitched on. It seemed to make no sense as I was doing it, but I trusted the instructions and it was actually a really quick method and turned out nice and flat. I have no front-fly fear any more!
I can’t wait to make these again, addressing my minor fitting issues to get them perfect. They may well become a TNT (tried ‘n true) pattern for me as I can envisage them in so many different fabrics, colours and patterns, the shape is good for me, and they are a really quick sew. I wore them the day I finished them before I’d even put the button on, and again the next day, which is usually the sign of a winner. Have I sold you on Burda 7017 too?!