Black n blue 7017s, and how to fix a broken zip fly

Burda 7017 pants

From multi-camisoles to multi-pants: well, I needed something to wear with them, right? This post contains three pairs of my beloved TNT, Burda 7017, made over the last few months. Teamed with a cami or tee and jauntily rolled at the cuff they’re practically my everyday uniform right now.

Burda 7017 pants

Pair the first was made back in April; you might have seen them cropping up in my Me-Made May. I didn’t blog them at the time because they are pretty zzz, but I wear them loads so they deserve a place here. They’re made of a beautiful cotton twill from Cloth House in Soho. I think it was about £14 a metre and totally worth it as it’s so soft, lovely to work with and to wear. For this pair I converted the front pleats into sewn-down tucks. I tried to take some detail shots of the construction but black = nuh uh. They are very nicely made though, honest!

Burda 7017 pants

This second pair uses a poly from my Ecuador haul. These are kind of secret pyjamas: SO COMFY thanks to a bit of stretch in the fabric, and I love that they look like denim chambray. They look especially nice with this tan tee and shoes, non?

Burda 7017 pants

I used leftover ikat cotton for the inner band which I think looks super sweet and adds a bit of rigidity. I have to give a shout out to the fly front directions in this pattern again: it’s now my default method as it’s very fast and accurate. (Except these and my next pair both turned out the wrong way round, ie crossing right over left, man-style, which feels quite odd!) The facings are integrated into the pattern piece so you simply press them back and stitch the zip to each in turn – soooo easy. However, I did very stupidly pull the zip slider right off the top edge as I was testing it. I don’t usually cut the stops off until I’ve sewn on the waistband, and there’s exactly why. See the bottom of this post for how I got it back on.

Burda 7017 pants

Latest pair! These use a beaaautiful Marc Jacobs cloth that I bought from Mood NYC way back last October. I thought it was denim but working with it made me question that: it’s crosswoven with black and blue-grey yarns, frays a lot and creases/presses readily. A silk mix suiting perhaps? It’s perfect light pants weight and feels very luxurious to wear.

Burda 7017 pants

For this pair I hacked the pattern a bit, lowering the rise by 2″ or so and almost eliminating the front pleats. Having learned what I did on Alice’s class I would have approached this a bit differently now; it turned out ok but the tiny pleats left over look a bit silly so I should have transferred them into the side seams.

Burda 7017 pants

I put welt pockets into the back to break up the expanse of bum. I was a bit cocky and went straight into it without practicing, having done welt pockets once before but quite a while ago. Needless to say they are far from perfect – the corners aren’t nicely squared off and they gape pretty badly. I think I’ll sew them closed to prevent them tearing over time. This pair looks less good tucked in due to the low waist so my top will usually hide this mess, ahem.

Burda 7017 pants

The pocket bags and inner waistband are made from lovely tana lawn scraps. (I wore the pants with its matching cami the other day and had secret sewist joy that my inner waistband matched my top.) The fabric had a lovely pastel-striped selvedge which I’ve left raw on the fly shield and cuff.

Burda 7017 pants

I made the waistband a bit wider and added two buttons, as well as a concealed inner button for a snug fit. I’m going to add belt loops as well – I was feeling lazy after doing the welts so left them off but I miss them.

Fix a broken zip

Now here’s how to fix that pesky slidden-off zip pull.

Fix a broken zip

Locate the very bottom of the zip, just above the stop. Carefully (I used my sharp thread snips) snip out two teeth close to the stop.

Fix a broken zip

Do the same on the other side of the zip. Make sure you remove teeth evenly on both sides (ie two teeth up on each side), so the zip will match up when you slide it back on.

Fix a broken zip

Ease the slider back onto one side, pushing it just one tooth up – you’ll feel it ‘click’. Do the same on the other side.

Fix a broken zip

Slide it up a bit to check it’s properly aligned; if not slide it back off and try again.

Fix a broken zip

Now hand-sew a strong bar tack across the hole where you cut out the teeth.

Fix a broken zip

And quick, sew some bar tacks at the tops to stop you doing it again (which will be covered by your waistband). Phew, crisis averted.

My good old 7017s are real wardrobe winners, a bit more interesting than everyday jeans and so easy to wear and style. I hear a lots of sewists say they hardly ever make repeat patterns, but it makes total sense to me as you have all the boring pattern cutting and fitting done and can just enjoy the process of making and wearing. I am, however, going to put it to one side now and try out my block next time I make pants to see how it compares.

30 thoughts on “Black n blue 7017s, and how to fix a broken zip fly

  1. lisa g

    i’m a huge fan of repeat pattern using! i have a handful of basics i can make time and time again. really it is a joy since all the tearing my hair out over adjustments has been done. these pants look great! i love this style–they look both chic and laid back at the same time.

  2. Gillian

    Katie, I’ve got a question. How do you get your pants to not sag down over the day? My usual TNT Elle pants have a crazy high waist, which means the don’t slide down during the way (’cause I’ve got hips for miles…) but I just started working on a pattern with lower rise and they just slide down right away! Do you rs stay in place? If they do, what do you think helps with that? The belt? Do you make your waistband super-stable for it won’t stretch out? Mine are stretch, which might just be my problem…
    That was rambling! Your pants all look GREAT! I love this TNT on you. Its such a nice mix of ease where it’s needed but a trim fit overall!

    1. Katie Post author

      Hey! I think the key to no slippage is a curved waistband, so that the top of the band is smaller/tighter than the bottom where it joins the pants. I draft a new one every time when I have the rest of the pants constructed, depending on how the rise is sitting. None of these sag or gape, however I am still trying to find a TNT method for reinforcing waistbands so they don’t crease or stretch out over time. Tried interfacing, twill interlining, stay tape etc etc and none are doing it for me yet!

  3. Scruffy badger

    I love these trousers on you – it’s such a good look and I guess I hadn’t realised you’d made so many, making them ‘your look’ through MMM. You’ve got me wanting some chino types now myself…….and thanks for the zip tip- would never have thought about re threading lower down, genius!!

    1. Katie Post author

      Thanks! I find them much more comfy than jeans these days.
      Yes, you can’t get that slider back onto the top of the zip, believe me, so it has to go from the bottom!

  4. seamsoddlouise

    These all look great. What an accomplishment to wear your own trousers, I can only dream. Though I am thinking of buying the Ultimate trousers and giving them a go. You make it all look so easy. Where do you find the time?

    1. Katie Post author

      I have those to try as well, they look quite foolproof and I hear good things about the fitting.

      Well, for a start I save time by not shopping any more ;) and honestly these are really quick to bash out – a two session job.

  5. Marilla

    Yep, not shopping definitely saves time! These trousers look great on you! I’m not sure I’m that happy with a trouser pattern yet. The RDC pantalon Gilbert are getting there, but the rise is too short on my denim pair (I still wear them though). I might have to re-visit it and make some adjustments, as you are right and good trousers are much comfier than jeans!

  6. ellebougies

    Your trousers are lovely, but with this expanding belly I’m not going to be attempting any of those for quite some time – but I LOVE your shoes! Especially the black with the zip – where are they from?

    1. Katie Post author

      Congrats on the pregnancy, hope all is well. They were from asos and the brogues are from clarks. I like the zip ones so much I bought two pairs (I wear shoes out quickly) sadly I think they’re sold out now.

  7. Bella

    You have your uniform down pat! All your pants looks really good. I’ve made a few of my own pairs (self drafted) but they always sag in the bum during wearing, does this happen to you?

    1. Katie Post author

      Nope, but I have a lot of bum to fill them with! Maybe you need to suck a bit of width out of the back pattern pieces.

  8. crab&bee

    I love the greys! And I love sewing repeats – makes all that fitting time worthwhile. AND I’m chortling about your secret sewist’s joy of a matched cami and inside waistband. I felt the same way when I was wearing a tank and undies I’d made from the same striped jersey.

  9. Fabric Tragic

    They’re a great little capsule collection. I’m a mad fan of repeat makes, as you’re probably aware! I’ve got a pair of style arc pleated pants ready on my spring sewing list, after my ridiculous numbers of Elle pants I am hoping their trouser block will be perfect for me. It’s so fantastic you’ve got such a great psttern consistently working for you.

  10. Kristi

    I also make patterns multiple times. I HATE all the fussy prep (and seam ripping) that goes into adult garment sewing, might as well make the most of it. Love these trousers. Look 2 is my favorite, the orangey brown and blue are great together.

  11. clemensnp

    Amazing trousers! I’ve never made any and love these, especially the cute turn ups. They’re definitely going on my to-sew list. A really helpful tutorial too – thank you! Catherine x

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  13. sewlittletime

    this is such a great cut of trouser on you. it’s perfect. and thanks for the zip repair trick – i would never have thought of doing it like that.

    you have made me more determined to find and fit a TNT trouser pattern for winter. umm, once i make a few more dresses first…

  14. Joyce

    What great trousers! I love them and I think that repeat sewings of the same pattern is a good idea, I’ve just done it with two skirts and Skirt No.2 is definitely a better fit than Skirt No.1. I’m really interested in seeing how this pattern has turned out in real life as I’ve had Burda 7017 on my hit list for a while. After reading your post it’s rocketed up to Number 1 slot for next project!

  15. Jenna

    I have a skirt which has facings and pockets that match a top and I feel that same little joy knowing that I am a bit matching! I really need to find a trouser pattern for the Autumn/Winter, I really love your trousers especially the second pair.

  16. Lynsey

    Hi
    I just wanted to say thanks for the zipper fix. I used it to replace a zipper pull on my daughters favourite jeans. She loves the jeans but they were so cheap (primark) that the zip refused to lock when it was up so kept falling open. I replaced it with a pull from an old denim skirt using your method and it worked really well. So thanks very much.

  17. Becca

    Hi Katie, How much fabric do you use per pair? I’ve just ordered this pattern and I’d like to order some cotton twill to make. I’ve looked online to see if I can find out and I’m too impatient to wait for it to arrive!

    Thanks

  18. Elouise

    Hi, I was wondering if I could ‘pick your brains’. I am currently in the process of making my first pair of these and the result so far more closely resembles a pair of clown trousers! My hips are 39″ and I have cut the size 40 based on the finished garment measurements, I am going to try them again with some stiffer fabric and using the size 38.
    Do you have any fitting advice?
    What size do you use based on your measurements?
    Any advice will be most gratefully received.

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